Sicily

  

Seven trips to Italy: the sixth trip to Sicily

To explore Italy it must see Siciy. The south is more character Italy part then others. Sicily is concentrate of the south. Also Sicily is summary of a lot of cultures and stiles but it is Italian summary, although it is Italy. Sicily is like one more Italy: so much of the innumerous sights of quite vireos kinds you can find there. So I took for Sicily trip 16 days — vacate and holidays days. 

 

The route of my trip

^{Grand Sicily discovery: 16 days trip}

1. Arrival to Sicily. Palermo
2. Palermo
3. Monreale, Bagheria, Cefalù
4. Agrigento
5. Villa Casale and Caltagirone
6. Etna
7. Catania
8. Taormina — noble resort of Sicily
9. Arrival to Syracuse
10. Noto
11. Syracuse: Caves of The Capuchins, National Archaeological Park
12. Aeolian Islands, Lipari and Panarea
13. Panarea Cala degli Zimmari and Cala Junco beaches
14. Panarea Calcara beach
15. Panarea
16. Departure. Hooray! Sicily!

 

 

1-st day: Arrival to Sicily, Palermo

To Palermo we got by plane with one sop in Rome. Our flight to Rome had delay so we had to fly next flight to Palermo, although they were frequently as a buses, so we got Palermo without any problem. From airport to Palermo (Quattro Canti, Piazza Vigliena) we went by bus (50 min) and there — by foot about five minutes to our hotel Quintocanto Hotel & Spa****. The hotel located close to main sights and had a SPA with a lovely indoor pool blue lighted in a dark (by seances, booked in advance, extra fee, but one seance was free).

On arrival day we walked nearby: Pretoria Square, Santa Caterina church, Martorana and San Cataldo, went along market place at Porta Carini street, very picturesque sicilian place, with even sicilian wedding too!

Churches in Palermo were rich decorated, with such impulsive life as south character sicilians had too. It was like another dimension getting in every time a church entering. Martorana and San Cataldo strake us at once by their extravagant styles mixed forms. So our first day was our introduction to Palermo and Sicily, such brightly and scenic!

 

 

 

2-d day: Palermo — capital of Sicily

Next day morning we went to golden Norman Palace, on the way came to the Cathedral, like from east fairy tale, and also came to Chiesa del Gesu church with already familiar baroque foam décor. Then we got to Piazza Marina square with a flea market and appeared as in a past. There was also huge ficus tree in the Garibaldi garden at the squarer center. It was just like a forest. One more we saw in Botanical garden, a bit later. after a stroll along the seaside. On the back way we went among antient quartiles with old buildings with time patina and extremally narrow streets.

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You can look useful touristic info and accommodation in Palermo in an article
What to see & where to stay at Palermo

 

 

3-d day: Monreale, Bagheria, Cefalù

Monreale

Next day we got by taxi to Monreale (10 km, 15 min) to one more golden Byzantine Cathedral. Chiostro dei Benedettini cloister with sunshine bighted gold on tones was one more miracle, you appear like in east fairy tale again.

 

Bagheria

After Monreale we went to Bagheria (by taxi too, 30 km,30 min from Monreale, from Palermo — 15 km, 15 min). We came to visit Villa Palagonia. There was eccentric décor with fairy and mysterious figures in the garden and interior. We were there quite alone, so it made more mysterious mood. About Bagheria you can watch a film Baarìa by Giuseppe Tornatore (where he was born)

 

Cefalù

After Bagheria we went to Cefalù (by train 35 min, from Palermo — 50 min, 70 km) We would like to visit the Cathedral with golden Byzantine mosaic, like we saw early, but this time it was like alive. Also we swam a bit at the sea, but water wasn’t warm yet (end of April) and it was windy also,

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You can look useful touristic info and accommodation in Cefalù in an article
What to see & where to stay in Cefalù

 

 

 

4-th day: Agrigento

So our Palermo trip ended we went to Agrigento, by train (about 2 hours), When we arrive in Agrigento there were numerous stairs at the platform and further — as come to our hotel, B&B La Dolce Vita. It was cute home hotel, with decor in Baroque-style and splendid breakfast on a balcony. It was very memorable hotel.

At first we took at the hotel transfer to get to Scala dei Turchi and then — The Valley of the Temples and back to the hotel. At the same building as the hotel was in we had a superb seafood dinner after all. And next day we took transfer once more — to get to Caltagirone.

 

 

 

5-th day: Villa Casale and Caltagirone

Villa Casale

On the way to Caltagirone we dropped in Villa Casale. archaeological site. The Villa Romana del Casale (4th century AD) had a lot of rooms and had a great collection of mosaic and frescoes covered interior with excellent state of preservation  

 

Caltagirone — ceramic capital of Sicily

And so we came to Caltagirone. Our hotel B&B Tre Metri Sopra il Cielo located in the middle of Staircase of Santa Maria del Monte, one window looked on the stairs, another — to Caltagitone roofs and Cathedral of Saint Julian. Add a lot of birds in the sky — and it would be incomparable atmosphere we lived in. Visit what we came for: Staircase of Santa Maria del Monte with unique every step, Public Garden Villa Comunale with cute and amazing ceramic decor, Nativity museum — visit all this one can per one day. like us. But feel atmosphere one can only staying here at least for one night,

 

 

 

6-th day: Etna — Sicily visit card

To Etna we took a taxi (134 km, 1 h 40 min). I choose there a hotel to stay for night, Corsaro Hotel & Spa sull’ Etna (Spa: sauna and jacuzzi with candles and relax music phone…) The hotel located near cable car to a volcanic crater. When we arrived Etna erupted, so excursion route was restricted because of dangerous area. So we didn’t see much, only mount of ash by one side and the infinity panorama of ash coming down to the beach and sea — by another side. We didn’t see martian landscapes. But we saw twinkling lights of Catania very far from us, in complete darkness of the night, where was nobody nearby.

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You can look useful touristic info and accommodation to explorer Etna in an article
Etna

 

 

 

7-th day: Catania — second main city of Sicily

Next morning we departed to Catania by a taxi (45 km, 1 h). When we arrived in, Catania met us light, spacious and clean, with character striped grey-white buildings in elegant sicilian baroque stile. There was a lot of noble palaces in Catania, but because of frequently destroying by Etna the city was abandoned by most of nobility, so that why there were so much numerous empty houses. One of the same palaces was our hotel, Hotel Manganelli Palace***, with preserved interior and frescoes — so we could feel how nobility lived here. At night we felt light vibration — so it was an earthquake caused by nearby Etna.

We had an interesting stroll at Catania. This city hid a lot of treasure to explorer. Firtst we visited spacious Piazza del Duomo — beautiful square with beautiful buildings and Duomo. Then right there we dropped in the picturesque fish market. further we went through beautiful street Via dei Crociferi to fantastic place Parco Archeologico Greco Romano di Catania. After that came out to University of Catania and Chiesa di San Nicolo All’Arena and got to one more interesting place — Roman amphitheater with a lot of cats.

On evening we went to have dinner on Duomo square at street restaurant. The square was gorgeous and large, Fontana dell’Amenano was especially spectacular in night lights. Piazza del Duomo looked like Rome squarer, but was quite empty.

 

 

 

8-th day: Taormina — noble resort of Sicily

From Catania to Taormina we got by bus; first we took a taxi to a bus station and then waited for our bus, it was no so convenient — we lost our time, I think it would be better to take a transfer straight to Taormina. We arrived in our hotel Hotel Villa Diodoro****, with outdoor pool with panorama views and very tasty breakfast, it was superb (for me). We offered and a dinner in the hotel too, it was delicious too. The hotel interior was gorgeous too, like in a palace. One thing disturbed me: balconies didn’t divide between neighbors by a wall, so all balconies were one common area. It happens in hotels. But this time was especially no lucky for us, because our neighbors smoked on balcony and all smoke came straight into our room.

To explorer Taormina we came to Villa Comunale, an eccentric garden, then went to greek theatre of Taormina with spectacular scene with Etna on background, and got down to the sea by the cable car, but it was pity, we didn’t came to Isola Bella — the rain was starting.

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You can look useful touristic info and accommodation in Taormina in an article
What to see & where to stay at Taormina

 

 

 

9-th day: Arrival to Syracuse

To Syracuse from Taormina we got by transfer to reduce our travel time (20 km, 35 min). We stayed for a couple of days at Des Etrangers Hotel & SPA***** on Ortigia Island. There were not available room to stay one day before, so we had to stay that day at Taormina. Of coarse. we could stay at Catania for a day longer, and not take this long way round. But than we wouldn’t visit Taormina. So, we were in our hotel with sea view room and indoor pool, a restaurant on a roof with Syracuse panorama views and very delicious breakfast. The hotel housed in medieval palace with historical interior so we could feel spirit of the age in its walls. Now the hotel is closed for a restoration and will open in 2022 again. According to the hotel website, it will be elegant luxury design which pleased eye with every line and detail. The hotel located near Aretuse spring and in two steps — Duomo square, so I walked there before breakfasts.

Duomo and square made a great impression on me: soft warm light shined marble made Duomo and square complex just perfect treasure. It was miracle to be here, one can look at it infinitely. Ortigia streets had history patina and were cozy and refined too and looked like Venice streets.

Where to swim nearby Syracuse

There was a little beach nearby Aretuse spring. I saw people was swimming there but it’s forbidden. One beach else located near Maniace hotel, but with stone shore. To swim it’s better to get to Fontana Bianche sand beach (17 km, 25 min) or Noto sand beach — Lido di Noto (Lido Scogliera Bianca, Spiaggia di Eloro) (35 km, 35 min).

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You can look useful touristic info and accommodation in Syracuse in an article
What to see & where to stay in Syracuse

 

 

 

10-th day: Noto

Next day we went for a day walk to Noto (by taxi, 35 min, 38 km). Arrived in Noto we found ourselves in sunny golden-rose-yellow town with beautiful sicilian baroque churches and palaces. These miracle Noto colors were so shine combined with sky hell blue color that it was so brightly and glorious — simply you should have seen it.

So we walked along: St. Nicholas Cathedral, San Carlo Borromeo church, San Domenico church (my favorite). It was very great view on Corrado Nicolaci street with Montevergine church in an end. From the church tower we could see sunshine sand colors Noto roofs.
Nearby Montevergine church we came in Nicolaci palace, it is a museum now. It was lovely to get out on the palace balconies and see Corrado Nicolaci street and from above too.

 

 

 

11-th day: Syracuse

Next day we explored Syracuse, went to Caves of The Capuchins and National Archaeological Park. To the caves we took a taxi (it was about 40 minutes to walk from us), we saved our time and strength for walking at the caves and the archaeological park.

Caves of The Capuchins were very spectacular labyrinth of passes in the antient stone mine (Latomia dei Cappuccini, latomia —  stone mine).Though they were not large, one can walk here for a long time to admire various pictures of stones forms mixed with plants.

After the caves we went to the archaeological park (1,5 km from the caves), main sights we visited were: all-known Ear of Dionysius in Latomie del Paradiso — one more stone mine,- Greek theater, tomb of Archimedes.

 

 

 

12-th day: Aeolian Islands, Lipari and Panarea

Lipari

From Syracuse to Milazzo port we took a transfer (2.5 h 200 km. It was no good idea to make a route this way, I recommend to depart to Aeolian Islands from Taormina, it ‘s closer.) Sailing to Aeolian Islands was with stops at Volcano and Lipari islands. According timetable our ship to Panarea was late enough so we had a time to sail to Lipari first and have a stroll there. We walked nearby a bit.

 

Panarea

Final our destination was Panarea. I prefer this Island to stay because it was greek in the past and like Santorini had blue-white colors and amassing views. There was no transport here — it was forbidden (except electromobiles). And there were hot springs so we could swim in warm water. So I decided to stay at Panarea. I choose Hotel Raya with a large beautiful pool with a great views and also nice territory with so stunning views too. We were lucky to live in room of better category so we enjoyed fantastic views quite always. The only thing disappointed me — the pool was warm only in two not large parts, to swim for some distance was possible in a large part with ambient temperature water.

 

 

 

13-th day: Panarea Cala degli Zimmari and Cala Junco beaches

This day we came to explorer Cala degli Zimmari beach. It was easy way and not long to reach the beach. On the way we enjoed views, flowers and blue-white geometry of Panarea buildings. The pebble beach was not so nice to enter water, pebble was no so small, different. Water wasn’t warm, so we swam quite a bit and went further to see Cala Junco beach. On the way we came onto a platform Capo Milazzese — an archaeological site, where traсes of Bronze Age were found. Cala Junco beach looks nice, but we didn’t like a thought to swim again in cold water.

 

 

 

14-th day: Panarea Calcara beach

Another stroll to beach was to Calcara beach — this time we hoped to find warm water to swim in sea thanks hot springs near Calcara beach — fumaroles. To find this beach was not so easy task. Though Panarea was small island, we for a long time walked around until we met two more man also looking for the beach — and we began to walk around all together. At the end I found a step trail hardly to identify — it was the way down to the beach. The beach itself accorded to the way down: it was quite stone beach, — with huge, man-size stones. We swam not far and didn’t find warm water spots. Though we were glad to explore the beach — we liked our little adventure because everywhere we enjoyed the views and aromas.

 

 

 

15-th day: Panarea — ‘apart’, apart of Sicily

Last day evening our hotel host warned us that forecast wasn’t convenient for boat departure next day we needed, so it would be possible to depart only quite early morning. Navigation of Aeolian Islands has this specific: it is depends on weather, and not always works. So one must consider this fact when go to or from Aeolian Islands. In that case we couldn’t get neither Stomboli, nor Vulcano, even around Panarea was problem to sail.

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You can look useful touristic info and accommodation in Aeoilian Islands in an article
What to see & where to stay in Aeoilian Islands

 

 

 

16-th day: Departure — Hooray! Sicily!

Next day the host told us that it was all O.K. with the weather so we could stay for a bit long time, as we planned. So we departed not in hurry. When we arrived to Sicily port, it was a happiness — there was a lot of LAND! I suddenly had realized this fact and I was glad to it very much. Obviously three days of living permanent in front of the sea on a little island, as Panarea it was, was like living on a ship surrounded by sea.

So we ended our long trip to Sicily, it was so rich for impressions and had so varies places that it was like we had a journey for a year. For every time we visited next place previous ones looked like far in past already, so the places were very unlike each other. Our trip was wonderful sicilian mosaic.